The runway at Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) 2027 witnessed a remarkable convergence of past, present, and future design visions as "DEWI Presents: Major Force" took center stage. Serving as a testament to the enduring legacy of Indonesia’s premier fashion incubator, the showcase featured an elite collective of alumni from the Fashion Force program. Spanning nearly two decades of creative development—from the inaugural pioneer batch to contemporary trailblazers—the collaborative showcase highlighted four distinctive labels: Hunting Fields, ISSHU, KLÉ, and WANDER.etc.
This dynamic presentation underscored the incubator’s critical role in nurturing homegrown talent, bridging the gap between raw creative potential and commercially viable, globally competitive luxury wear. As the Indonesian fashion industry continues to mature on both regional and international stages, platforms like Major Force offer a vital barometer of how foundational incubation programs translate into sustained market longevity and stylistic innovation.
Main Facts of the Showcase
The "Major Force" runway was meticulously structured to demonstrate the diverse design ethos nurtured under the Fashion Force banner. Rather than imposing a singular thematic constraint, the collective runway allowed each participating brand to articulate its distinct identity through tightly edited capsule collections.
Hunting Fields, representing the foundational 2008 cohort, offered a masterclass in minimalist summer tailoring with "Coastal Reverie." Meanwhile, ISSHU, an alumnus of the 2024 class, injected avant-garde theatricality into the lineup with a gothic-romance exploration titled "Grotesque." KLÉ, stepping forward from the 2009 batch, grounded the showcase in cultural reverence with "Wiraga Wirama Wirasa," paying homage to Central Javanese philosophies. Finally, contemporary footwear and apparel brand WANDER.etc, representing the 2025 cohort, brought a sense of meditative calm and restrained elegance through their collection, "Solace."
Chronology and Evolution of Fashion Force
To understand the weight of the Major Force showcase at JFW 2027, one must examine the chronological trajectory of the Fashion Force incubator. Established in the late 2000s—a period when Indonesia’s contemporary fashion market was rapidly professionalizing—the incubator was designed to fast-track independent designers into structured business operations.
In 2008, brands like Hunting Fields emerged during the nascent stages of digital fashion media and localized boutique retail, establishing a baseline for clean, urban minimalism in Indonesia. By 2009, labels such as KLÉ began experimenting with structural ready-to-wear, proving that Indonesian heritage could be abstracted into modern silhouettes without resorting to literal interpretations.
As the years progressed, the incubator adapted to shifting consumer behaviors, digital disruption, and a rising demand for specialized craftsmanship. The inclusion of newer alumni like ISSHU (2024) and WANDER.etc (2025) on the same runway as legacy designers highlighted a deliberate pedagogical shift within the incubator. Modern cohorts are encouraged to lean heavily into conceptual storytelling, material cross-pollination, and accessories-forward design, reflecting global shifts in consumer luxury preferences.
Hunting Fields and "Coastal Reverie": Minimalist Summer Elegance
Marking a triumphant return to the Jakarta Fashion Week calendar after a considerable hiatus, Hunting Fields presented a 12-look capsule collection titled "Coastal Reverie." Drawing inspiration from the quiet, reflective hours of a late summer evening, the brand leaned heavily into its signature minimalist DNA while introducing refined technical complexities.
The color palette was an ode to maritime atmospheres, dominated by deep ocean blues, weathered grays, pristine whites, and rich accents of burgundy. Structural minimalism was achieved through meticulous garment construction rather than excessive embellishment. Layered ruching created subtle textural movements reminiscent of receding waves, while precision accordion pleats and intricate knotting accents demonstrated the label’s mature tailoring capabilities. Industry analysts noted that Hunting Fields’ presentation served as a benchmark for wearable luxury, proving that foundational brands from the 2008 batch have successfully retained their commercial relevance while continually refining their aesthetic vocabulary.
ISSHU and "Grotesque": The Avant-Garde Gothic Romance
Injecting a dose of dark theatricality into the afternoon, ISSHU—an alumnus of the Fashion Force 2024 cohort—unveiled 12 looks under the provocative title "Grotesque." The collection challenged conventional beauty standards by mining the rich, melancholic aesthetics of 19th-century gothic romance.
In a notable collaborative effort, ISSHU partnered with emerging accessories designer Sarah Viarose to blur the boundaries between hard ornamentation and soft garments. Traditional jewelry and hardware components were deconstructed and recontextualized as structural elements woven directly into the ready-to-wear pieces. The runway presentation was heightened by an ethereal beauty direction, featuring makeup looks dominated by shimmering, crystalline tear details that caught the runway lights. Critics praised ISSHU for pushing the envelope of Indonesian contemporary fashion, demonstrating that newer cohorts are unafraid to explore niche, conceptual subcultures within a commercial framework.
KLÉ and "Wiraga Wirama Wirasa": A Structural Tribute to Central Java
Stepping away from Western-centric minimalism and avant-garde subcultures, KLÉ—representing the Fashion Force 2009 batch—delivered a poignant cultural meditation titled "Wiraga Wirama Wirasa." Translating to body, tempo, and feeling in traditional Javanese performing arts, the collection served as a structured, modern homage to the designer’s Central Javanese roots.
The collection successfully bridged traditional philosophical concepts with contemporary urban utility. Traditional motifs and ethos regarding the harmonious relationship between humanity, nature, and the divine were translated into sharp outerwear, bespoke tailoring, and versatile trouser ensembles. The styling drew direct inspiration from the posture and movement of classical Javanese dancers, juxtaposed against sleek metallic silver hardware and artistic accessories. Market observers highlighted KLÉ’s collection as a masterclass in modern heritage dressing, illustrating how historical narratives can be contemporized without losing their inherent dignity.
WANDER.etc and "Solace": A Meditative Conclusion
Bringing the Major Force showcase to a tranquil close, WANDER.etc—representing the fresh perspectives of the Fashion Force 2025 cohort—presented "Solace." Conceived as a visual metaphor for light at the end of a tunnel, the 12-look presentation emphasized comfort, quiet luxury, and understated resilience.
Rather than relying on loud statements, WANDER.etc anchored its collection in impeccable footwear craftsmanship, showcasing a refined array of loafers and flat sandals constructed from premium suede and supple leathers. The apparel followed suit, featuring relaxed silhouettes, fluid draping, and a muted, grounding color palette. The presentation reinforced the growing consumer demand for comfort-driven luxury, solidifying WANDER.etc’s position as a brand to watch in the coming retail seasons.
Broader Industry Implications and Economic Impact
The success of the "DEWI Presents: Major Force" showcase extends far beyond aesthetic appreciation; it offers critical insights into the maturation of Indonesia’s creative economy. Incubator programs like Fashion Force have increasingly become the backbone of the domestic fashion ecosystem, providing designers with crucial access to mentorship, production networks, and media visibility.
By placing legacy designers side-by-side with emerging talents, the showcase created an organic ecosystem of peer learning and brand validation. For investors, retail buyers, and international observers, the runway demonstrated that Indonesian independent labels possess both the creative diversity and the business resilience required to survive multi-decade market shifts. As Jakarta Fashion Week continues to position itself as a premier fashion hub in Southeast Asia, initiatives like Major Force ensure that the country’s design talent pipeline remains robust, innovative, and commercially viable on the global stage.
